Review | Laphroaig 12 Years Old

A classic ex-bourbon cask matured bottling from the iconic Laphroaig distillery on Islay that is exclusive to global travel retail.

Review | Laphroaig 12 Years Old

This new 12 Years Old single malt from the iconic Islay distillery of Laphroaig has been created with curious travellers in mind. The whisky has seen full maturation in American oak ex-bourbon barrels and will be exclusive to the global travel retail sector. These casks were hand selected for their quality by the distillery team. It will sit alongside the current core travel retail range that includes the Four Oak and PX Cask expressions.

The Laphroaig 12 Years Old bottle and packaging.

Laphroaig was founded in 1815 by brothers Alexander and Donald Johnston on the south eastern coast of Islay. Laphroaig is one of the few distilleries in Scotland that have their own floor maltings – a traditional room where the barley is left to germinate, turning starch to sugar. The malted barley is dried via peat fire for over 18 hours. This gives Laphroaig its intense, smoky flavour. The malt is peated to 50-55PPM (Phenol Parts per Million) with the majority of the resulting spirit matured in ex-bourbon casks.

Prince Charles issued a Royal Warrant to Laphroaig in 1993 and it remains one of his favourite whiskies. The Warrant has remained and has recently been reissued by the now King Charles III. The distillery is currently owned by Suntory Global Spirits and has an annual production capacity of 3.3 million litres.

The Laphroaig 12 Years Old is released at 46% ABV and is both non-chill filtered and of natural colour. It is available in selected travel retailers in selected European markets. These include Bulgaria, Croatia, Denmark, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Norway, Poland, Romania, Turkey and the UK. A 70cl bottle will cost £48/ €56.


Our Tasting Notes

The colour is vibrant gold and the nose is intensely smoky but with a delightful sweetness. The peat smoke dominates and has a distinct bonfire ash-like quality with hints of drying seaweed, damp moss, scorched rubber tyres and creosote. Further hints of saline and coal tar soap also develop. Underneath are aromas of green apple, icing sugar, heather honey and vanilla pod.

On the palate this whisky is bold, punchy and full on with the powerful peat smoke again to the fore. The bonfire note is dominant and incorporates both smoke, ash and burning embers. Then comes the drying salty seaweed and damp moss, plus some burning hay and coal tar soap. A hint of surgical bandage sits in the background. The power and heat of the smoke builds with time and has a distinct bitter and drying edge. A drip of iodine also comes through.

The green apple and floral heather honey battle through the smoke and add a wonderful depth. There is also a peppery spice that builds and delivers some feisty heat. With time further sweet notes of vanilla toffee, golden syrup and white chocolate evolve, plus a dusting of icing sugar and cocoa powder. Hints of toasted hazelnut. lemon zest and cooked tangy gooseberry also come through.

The finish is long and smouldering with the smoke and ash lingering superbly. The green apple note disappears rapidly but the sweeter characteristics fade slowly. This reveals the peat smoke and peppery spice, with these dragging out the finish to great effect. There is an iodine bitterness that combines with the ash to give plenty of dryness at the end.

The Laphroaig 12 Years Old bottle and packaging.

What’s The Verdict?

This is a superb offering from Laphroaig and one that seems well priced. After lots of playing around in the travel retail space, the iconic Islay distillery has gone hack to basics with this bottling. It is a triumphant return to classic ex-bourbon cask Laphroaig, which is where its spirit shines brightest in our opinion. If you are fan of heavily peated malts then this is one to search out, or at least sample, during your next visit through an airport.