Review | Whistlepig Old World Rye 12 Years Old

This whiskey forms part of the core range from Whistlepig, the craft distillery and bottler based in the northern American state of Vermont. They are known for their premium rye whiskeys. The 12 Years Old is initially matured in new American oak before being split and matured for a second time in three different fortified or dessert wine casks. These are ex-Madeira and ex-Port from Portugal, plus ex-Sauternes from France. They are married in a ratio of 63%, 7% and 30% respectively.

Whistlepig was founded in 2008 with the goal of bringing rye whiskies back into the premium North American Whisky sector. Since Prohibition, rye whiskeys had been seen as the poor relation of bourbon. A new distillery at Whistlepig Farm near Shoreham in the American state of Vermont began production in 2015. The ultimate goal is to bottle their own spirit for their range of whiskies.

To date, spirit has been sourced from an unnamed distillery in Alberta, Canada. These have then been brought over the border to mature at Whistlepig Farm. Since launching, Whistlepig has gone on to become the most decorated rye whisky brand at global whisky awards. This 12 Years Old expression is joined in the range by Piggyback 6 Years Old, 10- and 15- Years Olds. This is taken from the Canadian stock.

The Whistlepig 12 Years Old is bottled at 43% ABV (86 Proof) and is available in selected specialist whisky retailers in selected world markets. It is released in small batches but is a constant product. A bottle will cost US$160/ £120.

---

Our Tasting Notes

The colour is deep gold and the nose is expressive, woody and fruity. Aromas of fresh sawdust, maple syrup and peppery baking spices lead the way and are quickly joined by cinnamon bark and dessicated coconut. There is a heavy aroma of cherries (think old school maraschino cocktail cherry), plus some coconut cream, fresh vanilla and sugary sultana. Hints of dried orange peel and beeswax are also evident.

On the palate this whiskey feels creamy and rich with a subtle peppery kick. Initial notes of milk chocolate, raisin and plump sugary sultana are joined by lots of juicy cocktail cherry again. There is also plenty of maple and golden syrup, plus hints of toffee and cocoa powder. Underneath sit some elegant and earthy baking spices, which are backed up by further notes of cocoa nibs and toasted coconut.

The second half of the palate becomes more savoury with elevated notes of freshly sawn oak and dried orange peel developing. This makes the whiskey more drying and bittersweet towards the end. Hints of candied lime, liquorice root and eucalyptus oil sit in the background, as does a suggestion of beeswax polish.

The finish becomes more woody and drying with time. There is an increased peppery warmth with lingering vanilla and toasted almond notes, plus a hint of cocoa powder. The sweet and fruity elements fade with cherry lingering longest. Further late hints of spent coffee grounds and damp tobacco leaf develop as the drying oak and spices take hold.

---

What’s The Verdict?

There are not many rye brands, or American whisky brands in general, that carry an age statement across their range. Especially at this increased age. That is something that Whistlepig should be complimented on. This 12 Years Old feels really soft for a rye, with the cask and age combination playing their parts. It is also very interesting and innovative to use such a marriage of ex-dessert and fortified wine casks, which must be almost unique. An excellent and delicious whiskey.