Review | Tamdhu 18 Years Old

This 18 years old whisky from the Speyside distillery of Tamdhu is matured exclusively in Spanish Oloroso seasoned sherry casks. This expression is released in limited small batches annually as only a small selection of these rare casks come of age each year. This expression is a marriage of carefully selected casks made from both American oak and European oak with a dominant percentage from the latter.

The Tamdhu distillery is located in the centre of the Speyside region in Scotland, close to the hamlet of Knockando. It was founded in 1896 by the Tamdhu Distillery Company, which was formed of a consortium of whisky blenders. Throughout its history the whisky produced has largely been used in blends. It is only really under the ownership of Ian Macleod Distillers that the full installation of Tamdhu as a single malt brand has taken place. The current production capacity is four million litres per annum.

Ian Macleod Distillers have historically been independent bottlers with brands such as Smokehead and Isle of Skye. However in 2003 they purchased and revived Glengoyne distillery, followed by Tamdhu in 2011. More recently in 2017 they acquired, and have restored, Rosebank distillery which reopened in 2023. It had been closed for 30 years after ceasing production in 1993.

This expression of Tamdhu sits alongside the 12 Years Old, 15 Years Old, and annually released limited of 18 Years Old and a Batch Strength release (the current release is Batch 008). The recently released 21 Years Old also joins the range.

Two types of cask used across the Tamdhu range (American oak and European oak) that have been seasoned in Spanish Oloroso sherry. These are either first-fill or re-fill. Each age statement is a marriage of the two wood styles, but in a different balance. The 12 Years Old, for example, is more American oak forward with a little bit of European oak, while this 18 years old expression is the reverse.

The Tamdhu 18 Years Old is bottled at 46.8% ABV and is both non-chill filtered and of natural colour. It is on limited allocation to specialist retailers globally and via www.tamdhu.com. A bottle will cost £192.

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Our Tasting Notes

Thanks to the cask maturation this whisky has a deep burnt amber hue. It is rich and decadent to savour and undeniably enticing.

On the nose it is immediately sweet and nutty with classic sherry cask characteristics, but with so much more. There is hard toffee and dark chocolate plus loads of walnuts and toasted almonds. The intense fruitiness takes the form of brandy soaked prunes and milk chocolate coated raisins. There is an underlying rich tropical dried pineapple and mango with a hint of cherry. Finally, a malt and oat character matches with baking spices to deliver additional depth.

To taste this whisky is luxurious, velvety and complex. Initially this whisky comes across with creamy caramel and hard toffee. Then comes plump sugary raisins and intense dried currants, plus dark chocolate. It introduces sweet but bold nuttiness, like hazelnut ice-cream and walnut cake, plus a hint of bitter walnut. Building into the finish are drying oak tannins and warming baking spices of cinnamon bark and dried ginger powder. Throughout the palate there is an underlying vanilla cream custard and rich dried cherry, plum fruitiness and red apple.

The extensively long, long finish balances sweetness and fruity initially. As these fade the wood tannins come through and brings with it mouth-watering dryness. Warming baking spices provide a lingering heat. And finally a hint of dried tropical fruits develops bringing an extra fruity dimension.

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What’s The Verdict?

This is a superb whisky. It is a magnificent example of a sherry cask matured Speyside single malt of decent age. This is one for the sherry wood connoisseurs, although no ‘sherry bomb’ or ‘sherry monster’. It is more complex and classier than that. Elegant and rich, yet refined. The fruity and nutty characteristics marry perfectly with the oak, tannins and spice. This is how ex-Oloroso cask matured Scotch should taste. The pricing is a bit hefty, but the quality is almost second to none. Definitely one to sip and savour, or for a special occasion.