The leading Scotch blended brand of Johnnie Walker has launched the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami. The limited edition whisky has been created by Master Blender Emma Walker in collaboration with renowned Japanese chef Kei Kobayashi. It is designed to showcase the enigmatic flavour of umami. It is bottled at 43% ABV and will cost £285/ $US350.
The Elusive Umami is the first release in a series that will explore the different facets of the Blue Label. The series will bring together innovative techniques, global inspirations and creative vanguards. Setting out to push the boundaries of what Scotch whisky could be, Walker and Kobayashi have attempted to encapsulate the enigmatic taste of umami. Only one in 25,000 casks succeed in bringing this special limited edition blend to life.
The Blue Label is a relatively recent addition to the Johnnie Walker range and first appeared in 1992. It joins the Red Label, Black Label, Green Label and Gold Label in the core range. The combination of old and rare whiskies has seen the Blue Label become a prized whisky and status symbol amongst consumers. It has also spawned numerous side collections of limited editions, including the Ghost & Rare series that launched in 2017.
Our Tasting Notes
The colour is a deep golden auburn, and the nose is a mix of sweet and savoury. Aromas of baked apple and golden syrup fuse with apricot jam, fudge and vanilla sugar. Underneath is a mushroom earthy aroma with hints of fresh raspberry and bitter cocoa powder. Further hints of brazil nut and fresh tobacco are also evident.
On the palate this whisky is bold, rich and juicy. A burst of juicy fruit greets you with notes of fresh ripe apricot and mango to the fore. Then it moves to heavier dried tropical fruit like pineapple and banana chips. The umami simmers underneath before expressing itself fully. Notes of smoky porcini mushroom, earthy spices, wet soil and damp charcoal combine superbly. The smoky element is not ashy, medicinal or bonfire-like as in other Blue Label expressions. It feels more like a good barbeque sauce. Final hints of orange zest, bitter cocoa and Worcestershire sauce round things off nicely.
The finish is where the umami characteristics really shine. It feels really earthy and the finish is long. The mushroom quality and damp earthy spices are now to the fore, especially once the sweeter and fruity elements fade. A wisp of tobacco smoke right at the end is a nice touch.
What’s The Verdict?
With the Elusive Umami they have really pushed the savoury notes, which is unique and distinct. However, they have not foresaken the sweet and fruity characteristics. The combination is really quite delicious. This feels a very grown up whisky. We think it would be very complimentary to pairing with a good cigar or food. We plan to try this with the remainder of our sample. The umami really comes through later on the palate and definitely on finish. The nose is more subdued in this respect. It is going to be very interesting to see where this series takes us next.
