The Japanese whisky brand of Hatozaki has launched a new permanent expression into its core range. The Triple Cask Reserve is a new permanent expression into the core range of Japanese whisky brand Hatozaki. It is initially aged in ex-bourbon barrels and ex-sherry casks then finished for a six month period in rare ex-Umeshu plum liqueur casks. Umeshu is a traditional Japanese liqueur made by steeping local green plums in alcohol, and is known as ume.
The whisky has been created by Kimio Yonezawa, the Master Distiller at Kaikyō Distillery in Akashi City. This is where Hatozaki spirit is distilled. Kaikyō sits within the site of the famous Akashi Sake Brewery. This was established by the Yonezawa family in 1856. Distillation of spirits did not begin until 1918 with single malt not following until over a century later. Kaikyō was founded for this purpose in 2018 and is owned by a Swedish investment firm – they also own The Borders and Torabhaig distilleries in Scotland, plus independent bottler Mossburn Distillers.
The Hatozaki Triple Cask Reserve is bottled at 46% ABV and is both non-chill filtered and of natural colour. It joins the Finest and Small Batch in the core range. The whisky is available in selected world markets including Asia, Australia, Europe, the UK and USA. A bottle will cost £58/ US$75.
Our Tasting Notes
The colour is pale gold and the nose is bright and uplifting. Aromas of freshly cut hay, icing sugar and vanilla paste rise from the glass first. These are joined in time by some tart stewed plum and a distinct yeasty/ bread-like aroma. Hints of alpine herbs – think of thyme, sorrel and yarrow especially – add further freshness and a touch of bitterness.
On the palate this whisky begins with a green freshness, which then evolves to become woody and drying. Zesty lemon and crisp green apple lead the way and these are accentuated with a hint of fresh mint. Then comes the uplifting confected notes again – the vanilla paste, dusty icing sugar and red fruit jam in particular. This red fruitiness develops into the tart plums from the nose with time and is joined by some white chocolate. Some tannins then begin to come through and this leads to the more woody and drying vibe. A hot, peppery kick plus a hint of salinity hit at the end.
The finish of decent length but increasingly dry, spicy and hot. The sweet, confected characteristics fade with that plum-like note and the icing sugar lasting longest. Once these have gone it is all about the drying oak and peppery heat. A hint of gingerbread also comes through right towards the death.
What’s The Verdict?
This new release is clearly youthful but this gives it a spicy, peppery and vibrant freshness. It also shows what the new wave of Japanese whisky distillers are doing compared to the traditional powerhouse brands in the country. They are much more seemingly driven by flavour and more experimental, rather than relying on age or orthodox cask types. The addition of the umeshu casks here gives a lovely plum-like fruitiness, which we enjoyed.
