This single malt whisky sits at the pinnacle of the core range of Glenfarclas, the family-owned Speyside distillery. The 25 Years Old has been matured in 100% ex-Oloroso sherry casks for a quarter of a century. It joins other age statements in the range at 10-, 12- and 15-Years Old, plus the high strength 105 expression. Older whiskies exist, especially at 30- and 40-Years Old, but are released in very small batches
Glenfarclas was founded in 1836 by Robert Hay, although a distillery is known to have existed on the same site since the late-1700s. Hay died in 1865 and the distillery was purchased by John Grant and his son George. This kicked off the continuous family ownership – J. & G. Grant remain the owners with six generations having followed. In 1973, the distillery was one of the first in Speyside to open a visitor centre. The annual production capacity is 3.5 million litres and the distillery is well known for its use of premium ex-sherry casks.
Glenfarclas 25 Years Old is bottled at 43% ABV and is available worldwide in specialist whisky retailers. A bottle should cost around £250.
Our Tasting Notes
The colour is coppery gold and the nose is rich with a lovely mix of sweet and savoury. Aromas of soft green flowery apple, malty biscuits and chocolate coated raisin lead the way. Then comes golden syrup and manuka honey with some peanut brittle and oak spice. Hints of subtle florals lavender and damp, earthy mushroom are evident.
On the palate this whisky has a lovely texture and mouth feel. Initial notes of golden syrup and juicy dried fruit – think of sherry-soaked raisin and plump sultana – are to the fore. Then come dried orange and citrus oils, with soft stewed apple covered in a pinch of cinnamon powder. There is also some dried apple later on and a distinct fresh red apple skin note that develops.
The sweeter and fruitier notes are compliment by dark chocolate, nutty peanut brittle and hazelnut praline characterisitics. Some dried walnut bitterness is also in the background, along with a hint of coffee grounds. Underlying dusty and earthy spices, plus a hint of dried porcini mushroom add an umami and warming feel. A later hint of fresh gingerbread accentuates this.
The finish is of decent length and remains expressive throughout. The rich, fruity and sweet notes slowly fade to reveal the malty, orange and woody elements. These shine and are reminiscent of waxy polish and antique furniture. The earthy spices linger and build heat to elongate the finish.
What’s The Verdict?
This is a classic Speyside single malt and one that shows its age well. It needs some time to open up in the glass – initially we found it a little subdued but then it began to reveal its many complex and delightful characteristics. After 25 years in oak, it takes time to express itself. Glenfarclas have remained consistent in what they do for decades and this is refreshing in an ever-changing and fast-paced world. Long may it continue. We hope that it remains family-owned by the Grant’s to maintain this wonderful heritage.
