Review | Fettercairn Vanguard

This whisky is the one of two single malts that have launched The Vanguard Series by the Highland distillery of Fettercairn. Further releases will join over the three-year project. The series is designed to push the boundaries of Fettercairn’s classic fruity style. It also taps into the synaesthesic approach to whisky creation of Gregg Glass, the Master Whisky Maker at Fettercairn, who sees flavours in colour.

This no age statement Vanguard has been matured in ex-bourbon barrels since being filled to cask in February 2008. After 14 years, the whisky was transferred for a finishing period finished in unique 200-litre hybrid casks constructed from American oak staves. These had heavily toasted Scottish oak heads crafted from naturally wind-felled Highland Scottish oak. The casks were built for Fettercairn at the Speyside Cooperage.

It is joined by the rare Vanguard 29 Years Old. This was filled to ex-bourbon hogsheads in December 1995. After 25 years this was transferred to an exceptionally rare French pink oak cask from the Bordeaux cooperage Demptos. There are just 99 bottles available and each will cost £2,500.

The Fettercairn distillery is located near in the village of Fettercairn, near Laurencekirk in the east Highlands. This sits between the towns of Montrose and Stonehaven. It was founded in 1824 by Sir Alexander Ramsay but he sold it to Sir John Gladstone in 1830. He was the father of four times UK Prime Minister William Gladstone and the distillery remained in the Gladstone family for nearly a century. It is currently owned by Whyte & Mackay and is considered a prized malt within blending circles. The current annual capacity is 3.2 million litres.

Fettercairn Vanguard is bottled at 46.3% ABV and released as a small batch. Exact numbers have not been revealed. It is both non-chill filtered and of natural colour. A bottle will cost £100. Both Vanguard and Vanguard 29 Years Old are available worldwide in selected specialist retailers in selected markets.

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Our Tasting Notes

The colour is bright gold and the nose is fruity and sweet with a spicy undertone. It is very honeyed with a mix of acacia and manuka at play. This is accentuated by sweeter golden syrup and white chocolate aromas. Vanilla custard and hints of cocoa and icing sugar also come through. There is tropical fruit aplenty – think of ripe pineapple, mango, papaya and peach. This is accentuated by some cardomom spice and cinnamon bark.

On the palate this whisky is creamy, viscous and delicious. Early sweet notes of cream soda, marshamallow and vanilla sugar quickly evolve to become caramelised baked apple and waxy honeycomb straight from the hive. This in particular gives a lovely textural quality. The tropical fruits, and lots of them, then come through and take hold. Very ripe pineapple, plus some fresh peach and apricot are most noticeable.

The second half of the palate takes things in a slightly more savoury direction. There are lots of drying spices and oak, especially towards the end, with cinnamon, nutmeg and mace prominent. Then comes some cocoa powder and something umami right in the background, which is reminiscent of dried porcini mushrooms. A hint of dried tobacco leaf is also detected.

The finish is warming, peppery and of decent length, and becomes increasingly drying and oaky. This is especially true once the sweeter elements and tropical fruitiness begin to fade. The oak tannins take grip on the tastebuds and add an interesting extra dimension.

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What’s The Verdict?

Fettercairn were one of the first distilleries to use Scottish oak a few years back and its influence really comes through on the back end of the palate and finish. They have led the way and other brands have followed. It will be interesting to see what other innovations in maturation Fettercairn will introduce in this series. The 29 Years Old uses rare French pink oak, which we have never seen used in whisky, for example. This no age statement Vanguard is delicious and creamy, and packed with Fettercairn’s signature tropical fruity notes. Very good.