Review | Cragganmore 12 Years Old

This Cragganmore 12 Years Old is one of the six single malts in Diageo’s Classic Malts range. It represents the Speyside region – the other regional representatives are Dalwhinnie (Central Highlands), Glenkinchie (Lowlands), Lagavulin (Islay), Oban (West Highlands) and Talisker (Islands). The Classic Malts was launched as a concept in 1988 and Cragganmore 12 Years Old has been a constant bottling throughout.

Cragganmore was founded in 1869 by John Smith, who had worked at the nearby Glenfarclas and Macallan distilleries, but decided to open his own. It is located near the village of Ballindalloch in the heart of the Speyside region of Scotland. It is owned by Diageo and has a current production capacity of 2.2 million litres. Unusually, they run six short and six long fermentations per week. They are 50 and 100 hours respectively. This produces aheavy malty wash and a light fruitier one. These are combined prior to distillation.

Cragganmore means ‘big rock’ and comes from the Scottish Gaelic ‘creagan mór’. The name refers to the local “Craggan Mor” hill, which sits close to the distillery. Cragganmore’s greenstone building materials were quarried from the hill. The water for production is taken from the Craggan Burn, which runs alongside the distillery. Cragganmore is known for its heavy and complex Speyside style. This sturdy, robust single malt adds considerable structure to blended whiskies. They also occasionally use lightly peated malt to produce a mildly smoky spirit.

The Cragganmore 12 Years Old is predominantly matured in ex-bourbon barrel but also a smaller percentage of ex-sherry barrels. It is released at 40% ABV and is widely available worldwide and via www.malts.com. A bottle should cost around £45.

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Our Tasting Notes

The colour is deep gold and the nose is fruity, sweet and malty. Aromas of baked apple and poached pear rise first and these are accompanied by some golden syrup, dried fruit (especially sultana with a hint of raisin) and vanilla fudge. Candied orange peel and fresh lemon zest are also detected. Underneath is a distinct biscuit-like maltiness and a faint wisp of gentle peat smoke.

On the palate this whisky is bold and sweet with a malty structure. Notes of baked apple tart or tarte tatin kick things off. The whisky feels creamy yet robust and the distinct biscuity maltiness from the nose underpins everything. This feels like a combination of oat cookies and buttery shortbread. Some dried fruits come through very nice – think especially of raisin, sultana and a hint of candied orange peel.

There is also a nutty quality that develops. This has a hint of toasted hazelnut and a suggestion of almond marzipan. This sits in the background. More toffee and vanilla fudge come through, and this takes the early apple notes in a more fairground toffee apple direction. The faint wisp of peat smoke from the nose, plus a hint of sandalwood, add extra depth and complexity. The smoke is very soft, sweet and gentle and embraces everything.

The finish is of decent length and it is here that the smoke comes through a little more. Some drying oak and a pinch of peppery spice also develop nicely, especially once the fruity and sweet characteristics have faded. The oak lingers particularly well.

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What’s The Verdict?

This is a delicious whisky and one that remains well priced. Most Cragganmore spirit is used elsewhere in blends but this 12 Years Old and its sibling, the Distillers Edition, both show its quality. It is not a typical Speysider due to the slightly heavier and more robust nature of the spirit, plus that wisp of soft peat smoke. The smoke acts like seasoning in a good recipe – it underpins everything and accentuates other flavours. You know it is there but it does not dominate. Very nicely done and a delicious whisky to sip and savour.