The Northern Irish distillery of Bushmills have released a very special and rare single malt. The Bushmills 46 Years Old ‘Secrets of the River Bush’ is the oldest ever to be released by the brand. The rare liquid has been nurtured by two generations of distillery staff. It celebrates the River Bush, which flows through the town of Bushmills and supplies all water for the distillery. It has been created by Alex Thomas, the Master Blender at Bushmills.
The whiskey has been maturing in ex-Oloroso sherry casks from Jerez, Spain for almost five decades. It is released at the natural strength of 46.3% ABV. There are just 300 bottles available via selected specialist and luxury retailers in selected global markets. The bottle is accompanied by a handmade bespoke walnut presentation casket. Each will cost £9,750/ US$12,500.
Bushmills holds the oldest distilling license in the world dating back to 1608. However, the official foundation date is widely recognised as 1784. It is located in the small town of Bushmills, which sits on the County Antrim coast in Northern Ireland. This is just two miles from the famous UNESCO World Heritage site at The Giant’s Causeway. The distillery is owned by Proximo, who took control in 2014. The annual production capacity is around 12 million litres. This is split with six million coming from both The Old Bushmills Distillery and new Causeway Distillery.
This isn’t just a smooth, rare single malt whiskey, it is real history in the making. For 46 years, we’ve patiently watched over this remarkable liquid and witnessed it transform into this rich, dark beauty, deeply authentic and full of flavour, this is Bushmills at its best.
Alex Thomas.
Our Tasting Notes
The colour is deep coppery amber and the nose is complex and rich. Expressive aromas of prunes, demerara sugar and manuka honey lead the way. It is sweet then savoury with hints of molasses and menthol. Then come dried grass with distinct meaty and nutty undertones. Further aromas of polished antique furniture, candied liquorice and dried fruits, especially orange and cherries, are also evident.
On the palate this whisky is immediately mouthcoating, rich and expressive. Again it is sweet and fruity then savoury and woody. Initial notes of dried fruit are to the fore – think of apple rings, orange peel and cherry especially. Then come the candied liquorice sticks from the nose, plus dark chocolate and brown sugar. Stewed prunes and raisins also evolve, along with underlying very ripe peach.
The savoury characteristics are never far away. The woodiness is drying, warming and delicious. This is a combination of warm oak, the antique furniture from earlier and some waxy wood polish. Hints of high roasted coffee and menthol seem to accentuate this. There are also some dusty baking spices that develop. The cherry and peach characteristics make a welcome return towards the end.
The finish is long and sumptuous. The woody and baking spice notes linger longest. The sweet and fruity elements slowly fade to reveal more chocolate and coffee. The wood and spice gives a gripping and drying mouthfeel. Luscious and delicious.
What’s The Verdict?
This is a luxurious, complex and decadent whiskey that is full of flavours and characteristics that only significant time in oak can give. There is so much going on that it is difficult to know where to begin. It shows how great high aged Irish whiskeys can be with sympathetic casking and maturation. If you are lucky to get a taste, do not think about it too hard but sit back, sip and savour.
This is clearly not a ‘whisky for everyone’ but it is a whisky for someone. Bushmills have also priced this well – we know that is difficult to say given that it is nearly £10k. Our reference is against similarly aged Scotch single malts, which would be easily double or maybe triple the cost. Therefore they have done well to keep it under £10k.
