Bunnahabhain (which is pronounced boo-na-ha-ven) is located on the rugged north eastern coast of the island of Islay, which lies off the west coast of Scotland. The distillery was built in a remote spot due to the quality of the local water source and the village of Bunnahabhain was built as a result. Production began in 1881 and the distillery has had difficult history at times – this includes numerous owners and three periods of closure (during the 1930s, 1980s and most recently between 1999 and 2002).
The current owners are the South African-owned Distell, who took control from former owners Burn Stewart in 2014, and the distillery has an annual production capacity 2.5 million litres per year. Much of this goes towards the popular Islay blend called Black Bottle, although this has changed as Bunnahabhain’s own popularity grows.
Bunnahabhain is the lightest of the Islay whiskies with extremely low levels of peat influence in the malted barley (around 2-5ppm – phenol parts per million) compared to its contemporaries on the island. Islay is famous for it smoky and peaty whisky and Bunnahabhain is very much the black sheep of the family. The 12 years old in part of the core range which includes a non-age statement, Stiùireadair, plus older age statements up to 40 years old. Independent bottlings are also are readily available.
Bunnahabhain 12 years old is bottled at 46.3% ABV and is both non-chill filtered and of natural colour. It is widely available in specialist whisky retailers worldwide and occasionally in UK supermarkets. A bottle should cost £42-45.
Our Tasting Notes
The colour is deep amber and the nose has a lovely fresh sweetness to it, with vanilla and caramel coming through. These are joined by a distinctive saltiness (imagine seaweed or ozone/sea spray) and this is common in whiskies that are matured by the sea, as Bunnahabhain is. Over time, the porous wood of the casks breathes in the salty sea air and this is transferred to the whisky.
On the palate, this is gentle and smooth with plenty of malty sweetness and dried fruitiness (imagine raisins and sultanas especially). That saltiness from the nose is present again, giving the whisky a briny quality, which may sound unappetising but is actually refreshing. Then comes caramel and some warming woody spice, plus here is also something nutty (think of toasted hazelnut and brazils) and herbal. The finish is of decent length with the sweet and rich elements slowly fading to leave a refreshing and interesting herbal bitterness.
What’s The Verdict?
This is completely different from any other whisky from Islay and is worth a try. The very light peat smoke makes it unique against its contemporaries and adds a subtle depth and complexity. The decent percentage levels of ex-sherry cask maturation give this whisky a lovely richness and sweetness. A hint of salted caramel also gives extra interest. A real underrated gem.
