Talk to an Irish person and they will tell you that the Irish were the creators of modern whisky as we know it. That said, a Scottish person will say the same! However, there is evidence of a migration occurring during Medieval times with monks bringing both brewing and distillation techniques across the Irish Sea. However, the true origins of distilling and whisky remain unclear.
Historically, there were many distilleries dotted throughout the country at the beginning of the 20th century. Over 100 are thought to have been in production. This crashed to just two – Bushmills in the far north and Midleton in the far south – by the late-1960s. A catastrophic set of circumstances aligned to create an almost total collapse of the Irish whiskey industry – World War I, the Prohibition in the United States and then World War II amongst other things. Brands and distilleries failed and went bankrupt. The future looked bleak.
Now that future looks much brighter as Irish whiskey undergoes a true renaissance. The craft and artisinal distilling movement has swelled numbers of distilleries and they can now be found across the country, both in Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. These new brands are pushing the boundary of what Irish whiskey is and bringing us some exciting products.
Single Pot Still
A style of whiskey unique to Ireland. Born out of necessity due to the historical introduction of high taxes on malted barley, pot still whiskey is enjoying a renaissance. It must legally contain a minimum of 30% malted barley, 30% unmalted barley as well as being able to contain up to 5% other grains such as oats, wheat and rye.
Single Malt
A classic style of Irish whiskey made at one distillery and of 100% malted barley. This traditional whiskey is often distilled three times in Ireland, compared to twice in Scotland. Triple distillation produces a lighter and more delicate spirit, and the category is led by Bushmills in Co. Antrim. It has had a License To Distil since 1608.
Grain Whiskey
The method for continuous single grain distillation was designed and patented by an Irishman – Aeneas Coffey. The column still, or Coffey still as it is sometimes known, remains in use today and creates single grain whiskey around the world. In Ireland, this is rarely seen on the market but mostly used as the foundation for blended whiskeys.
Blended Whiskey
A marriage of single grain, single malt and pot still whiskeys. The cornerstone of the Irish whiskey industry, particularly during the tough times of the 20th century. Blended whiskeys are the most popular style, led Jameson. This best-selling brand helped to reinvigorate Irish whiskey, starting in the 1980s, and has led from the front ever since.
Early history
Ireland has the oldest officially licensed distillery in the world – Bushmills in Co. Antrim on the northern coast, close to The Giant’s Causeway. Its license was granted in 1608 by King James I. Evidence of whiskey distillation and that of other traditional Irish spirits, such as the powerful poitín, had been happening illegally since the time of the Norman invasion of Ireland. By the mid 1700s, there were said to be over 1000 distilleries operating all over the country, with the vast majority being illicit. This forced the government to act and they raised taxes on alcohol and actively shut down illegal stills.
By 1820, the number of distilleries had been reduced to just over 200, although only 20 of these were actually legal. A number of those affected by the mass government crack down and closures, set off for America and became the forefathers of the American whiskey industry. Further distilleries closed as the richer and larger companies took over, but the industry was still booming. This was fuelled by the desire for Irish whiskey in the UK market, where during the late Victorian period it was one of the best selling spirits. As the British Empire expanded then so did the popularity of Irish whisky to a degree. America was a massive market and the distilleries struggled to keep their stock levels up with consumer demand.
Tough times
The sales of Irish whiskey and its popularity came crashing down as the American market discovered Scottish single malts and blends. With Irish whiskey just beginning to recover from that blow, the Prohibition Act was introduced was introduced in the US. This ran between 1920 and 1933 and was a nail in the coffin for Irish whiskey. The Government at the time was highly influenced by the temperance movement and banned the sale, consumption and manufacture of alcohol for thirteen and a half years.
During this time, the Scots were exporting and selling around the British Empire and stockpiling vast quantities of spirit. Once Prohibition was over in the US, then they were able to flood the American market with Scotch whisky. The struggling Irish industry was unable to keep up or compete and nearly all the distilleries were wiped out, along with many brands. By the mid 1960s only four distilleries remained – Bushmills up north, Midleton down south in Co. Cork, John Jameson & Sons and John Power & Son in Dublin. The domestic market had all but collapsed and exports of whiskey were virtually zero.
Rising from the ashes
In 1966, three of the remaining distilleries merged together to try and rescue themselves. They become what is now known as Irish Distillers, building a brand new distillery in the south of Ireland in the process, which also distils vodka and gin. This was located at the old Midleton distillery but was much more modern and using the technology of the day. This left only Bushmills and Midleton surviving. In 1989, a business man named John Teeling launched Cooley distillery, with the goal of re-introducing some of Ireland’s lost whiskeys. This move would begin the slow rebuilding of the Irish whiskey scene. He would later kickstart the craft and artisanal scene with the Teeling distillery, which was the first to open and operate in Dublin since the 1960s.
This craft scene has helped Irish whiskey to climb back to where it belongs and the country produces some exceptional whiskies. These are highly sought after, multi award-winning and are again being enjoyed all over the world. There are now over 30 distilleries in operation in Ireland.
To discover the differences between Irish whiskey and those from Scotland and America, have a look at whisky or whiskey?
Good places to start
Weekend in Dublin
Expect the full tourist experience when you head to either the Bow Street distillery of Jameson to experience the historic site of John Jameson’s former original distillery or Roe & Co distillery beside Diageo’s Dublin HQ at the Guinness brewery which offers equally imaginative experiences.
Hire a car and explore
Ireland’s distilleries are spread across the country so you will need a car or to join a tour to visit more than one. The Discover Ireland website keeps an up to date list of visitor centres open for you to experience. Grab a map, or a satnav, or simply enjoy getting lost on the country roads.
Don’t forget to head north
Northern Ireland is not just a beautiful part of the world full of natural tourist attractions, it now has more than it’s share of distilleries to visit…. from Bushmills and Echlinville distilleries to Two Stacks whiskey blenders. You are likely to find plenty of breweries on your journey.